Radon Swoop 170 2016

En esta entrada voy a analizar a la nueva Radon Swoop 170 2016, un modelo de Enduro con ruedas de 27.5'' y un sistema tipo FSR con 170mm de recorrido que destaca principalmente por su relación Calidad/Precio, un aspecto en el que compite directamente con marcas como Canyon o YT...

Como podéis ver en la tabla de excel y en las gráficas anteriores el sistema de la Radon Swoop 170 tiene una Eficacia de Pedaleo algo baja, pero todo depende mucho del amortiguador y de la transmisión que utilizemos. En los montajes con una transmisión tipo 1x11 lo ideal sería utilizar un plato de 28T con el que el sistema tiene un funcionamiento muy bueno y en los montajes con un 2x10 creo que lo ideal es cambiar el plato de 36T y poner algo un poco mas pequeño, aunque se pierda un poco desarrollo para bajar. El sistema va a funcionar muy bien en el plato pequeño, pero el rendimiento con un plato de 36T es bastante bajo y hay que tener en cuenta que en algunas versiones el amortiguador no tiene bloqueo... El Pedal-Kickback (17º) como es lógico se mantiene en un nivel medio y el Brake-squat (42%) se queda en un nivel bastante bajo.

En la gráfica del LR vemos como el sistema es del tipo Progresivo-Lineal (2.85-2.6), unas cifras que no son las ideales para un cuadro de Enduro, sobre todo cuando la competencia mas directa tiene un comportamiento muchísimo mas progresivo, aunque seguro que hay mucha gente a las que el LR de la YT Capra o el de la Canyon Strive les parece excesivo y en ese caso la Radon Swoop puede ser una buena alternativa. Radón compensa este problema utilizando unos amortiguadores bastante buenos: RSMP, FFX, FFX2, RS Vivid... y la verdad es que es una buena idea, el único problema es que han escogido dos amortiguadores sin bloqueo, cuando lo ideal habría sido montar de serie un CCDB Air CS en los modelos de gama alta.

Un saludo.

11 comentarios:

Josep Barberà dijo...

Qué poco me atrae la idea de ir aumentando recorrido en la trasera, sin aumentar la carrera de los amortos!!!.


Cristi Pavel dijo...

Hi Antonio,

I need a new bike and this is one of my options so thank you for checking it.
I noticed that most of the model libraries you added in Linkage SW are rated as "low precision".
I suppose it's because you use some presentation pictures of the bike.
If it's like this then I think the following picture might be better:

I was hoping that the Swoop 170 would be more progressive than the Slide 150.
I haven't seen it considered in your analysis but do you think the geo adjuster has an important influence in the suspension characteristics?

I'm not that skilled, so it will take a while until I'll maybe get use of a more progressive geo but I would like to know the bike is prepared for what it may be used (future visits to bikepark).
Or I could also use some volume adjusters later, I don't think this would have other negative side effects.
And if I just look at how some PROs can ride similar linear suspension systems (Richie Rude on the Yeti SB6C ) then I have no reasons to be too picky.

I will join a Radon test session in one week from now and I hope I can throw a leg over one Swoop 170 , I am also not convinced about the long reach (460mm in size M, I'm 1.83m and a back wheel rider type :) ).
Maybe sometime later you can also have a look on the Rose Pike's Peak for which I am thinking of waiting one more year, here is a picture of the 150mm frame (they plan a 165mm too):

Best Regards,

Antonio Osuna dijo...

I've been wainting five or six months until I got a really good picture of this bike, so I'm very confident in the results. Having 3 stars doesn't mean that the model is low quality. 4 is reserved for models created from real measures, and 5 is for the manufacturer Data, so 3 stars is actually as good as it gets most of the time.

The new Rose looks really good, but waiting so much time doesn't make sense, the Aluminium YT Capra works really well and it's very affordable...

Best regards,

Cristi Pavel dijo...

I prefer Swoop over Capra for several reasons:
- seatstay is aluminium, not carbon
- water bottle support (I don't like backpacks)
- geo adjustable(at least BB hight and HA)
- Guide RS brakes vs Guide R
I hope I get a better idea after the testride, it will be on real trails, not in parking lot.

Joe dijo...

Conway WME?

Antonio Osuna dijo...

That's a really good one too, but it's a bit more expensive... 2K for the Radon and 2.6k for the Conway. Both are crazy cheap if we compare them to any other brands, but if you are on a buget 600€ it's a lot of money.

Best regards,

Jaenine & Chris Badenhorst dijo...

So Christi Pavel what did you think of the Radon swoop?

I am really interested to buy one and would appreciate your comments.Thanks


Cristi Pavel dijo...


Sorry for late reply, I don't check this too often.

I tested 10.0 and a 8.0 , both in M size (I'm 1.83).
It descends very well.
Climbs good with locked shock.
I liked the fox 36 more than Yari, of course.
But somehow I felt the Monarch plus was better than FloatX (I heard it was custom tuned for Swoop 170).
Magura brakes had some issues and I like more RS Guides.
Shimano shifts better than SRAM GX but I prefer the bigger range and lower weight of GX.

Testing went well so I bought one: the 9 1x11 variant (with Vivid air). I took the M size, for me it is spot on.
I have it since May and I have the impression the Lyrik is still a little under the FOX 36.
Vivid air is much better than Float X or Monarch plus on descends.
On climbs it's not that good (30 chainring).But I don't bother. Worst case I will buy a Monarch or a Monarch plus if I'll ever make some hard climbing.
Bike came with Baron tires and I converted to tubeless... works well. I'm not overly impressed, I'll try Schwalbe or Maxxis when they fail/wear.

From what I've seen on a German forum some had a few issues, mostly with the 8.0 model.
Mine had no important issues but I put Loctite on all suspension screws before I used it.
Had a small issue with GX mounting screw getting loose. Put now Loctite on that too, hope it solves it
While testing I liked the Fox36 a little more than I now like the Lyrik.
But the serviceability on RS and other components on the 10.0 made me go towards the 9.0.

As the table shows It's not too progressive so I had to put air spacers in the Vivid to prevent bottom out (60cm drop to flat).
I now use 9 out of max 12 but I think 7 will also work for me.

I really like this bike.

Best regards,

ruben dijo...

hola Antonio, ke tipo de amortigudor le va mejor a este sistema uno de muelle tipo cane creek coil cs o uno de aire

Antonio Osuna dijo...

Yo creo que le va mejor uno de aire aunque hay algunos amortiguadores de muelle que tambien pueden dar muy buen resultado, algo parecido al antiguo Fox RC4 con un bastago de aluminio gordito que ponga a funcionar el deposito secundario como si fuese una cámara de aire positiva...

Un saludo.

Fabrizio Castellini dijo...

Hola chicos, mi nombre es Fabri y estoy escribendo desde Italia.
Querrìa recordar una cosa, Antonio tu escribiste que el sistema serìa mejor con un amortiguador como un CCDB air con Climb shift, pero yo querrìa recordar que el Climb Shift NO es un bloqueo, es un aumento de la compressiòn a las bajas velocidad, que no bloquea, pero reduce un poco el bobbing del sistema.
Quiero aùn recordar que el sistema climb shift, no es para mi un buen sistema para mejorar la situaciòn en subida porquè cerrando el climb shift se actua como cerrando de 3 o 4 click la compresiòn y siempre yo necesito actuar con una llave sobre la regulaciòn de la compresiòn a las bajas velocidad, cerrandolo completamente.
Pongo un ejemplo: si a una persona le gusta pedalar con compresiòn de las bajas velocidad bastante abierta, cerrando la palanca del Climb Shift, non se adverte mucho el mejoramento.


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